From inspection to negotiation, here's everything you need to know.
Start with the frame
The frame is the heart of any bike, and damage here is a dealbreaker. Run your fingers along the tubes looking for cracks, dents, or repaints that might hide a repair. Pay special attention around the head tube and the bottom bracket — a creak or flex here can mean a bent frame from a crash.
Check the drivetrain
Shift through every gear. The chain should move smoothly without skipping or clicking. Look at the chainrings and cassette: hooked, shark-tooth-shaped sprockets mean a worn drivetrain that will cost $150–$400 to replace. A rusty chain is a sign the bike has been stored outdoors.
Wheels and brakes
Spin each wheel and watch the rim wobble. A small truing tweak is fine, but a rim that hops more than a few millimetres or has visible cracks needs work. Squeeze the brake levers firmly — they should feel firm, not spongy, and the pads should contact the rim or rotor squarely.
Match the bike to the rider
A bike that's the wrong size is miserable to ride, no matter the price. Stand over the top tube — you should have a couple of centimetres of clearance. For road bikes, aim for the saddle height to allow a slight bend in the knee at the bottom of the pedal stroke.
Negotiate with confidence
Use the issues you found as leverage, but be fair. A reasonable opening offer is 10–15% below the asking price for a clean bike, more if you've identified worn parts. Have cash ready and a plan to collect — sellers love a buyer who shows up on time with a bike rack.
Don't forget the paperwork
If the bike is a high-value model, ask for proof of purchase or a frame serial number photo. Register the serial on a national bike registry once it's yours, so if it's ever stolen you have a record to share with police.
Emma Wilson
Cycling Contributor
